REVERSE BUDDHISM & JOY OF KARMA
I’m pretty sure this is Day 4 – Elisabetta had a good vibe – a good social mix , a good warm bar as the weather took a turn for the worst. We appear to have lost the group we first saw on the plane. Named without irony as “The Mountain Men” ever after 
8 men 45 to 55 ish in full TMB gear , boots , shorts and wide brimmed matching Stetson style hats. ON THE PLANE .
This was either an overly themed Stag Do or a corporate offsite with poor risk assessment.
Either way in the spirit of “Your Camino – Your Way” ( T&C’s apply 
) we judged not. ….. at first.
Luke – 22 at the time appeared to set this groups leader and assistant on edge. Just by existing we assumed. Odd really the other 6 were absolute sweeties.
As soon as we landed at the Geneva T1 – which we now know the T stands for Testosterone they managed to bristle against , remark upon and otherwise attempt to establish hierarchy. Luke to his credit either ignored it , thought it amusing or asked a deflective polite question about their destination and trip plans.
To NO avail . There’s an old Buddhist saying – as Human beings – there is “More that binds us Together than keeps us apart” – and yet we still seek that separation. – in a reverse Buddhist moment this is exactly what the Mountain Mens leader had managed to do.
“You’re doing huts and refuges ?? – he says “Well we’re doing the WHOLE way in tents”
Good luck .
I’ll come back to these lovelies later .
Sebastian gives his morning briefing – best French accent ever – deeper if possible – think he switched from Gitane to Gauloise
“Today we head to ze legendary Berthone (5-7hrs, 1100m/3609ft ascent) – BUT this is after firstly descending ( smiles) the same – by now you know DOWN is way worse than UP.
We will be in the enchanted valley of Veni, the enormous Miage glacier which flows down into the beautiful Lake Combal. This is the Italian side of Mont Blanc that is offered to you from a truly beautiful standpoint and is perhaps the most enjoyable on the route. The trail continues along the flat valley floor overlooked by the serrated rock pinnacle of Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (3773m).
There are some steep climbs, rewarded by magnificent alpine views, before we arrive in the town of Courmayeur, where you should definitely make the most of the amazingly delicious Italian Gelato (ice cream). Before arriving at the Berthone refuge (1970m) for the nights accommodation, we have a tough but rewarding 2-3 hour ascent. Overnight Refuge with shower.
23km – 1100m/3609ft ascent, 1200m/3937ft descent”
Ok let’s go ….
Bunny Ears – Lux’
You can clearly see the amusement these 4 share; how 4 people from such different cultures , generations , continents gel together. Just fab . Xx
We head down a few thousand feet into the valley . Huge black peaks either side
An hour further on- past medial moraines and tough boggy going
and we turn a corner on the trail ……..and our reaction is everything Sebastian hopes. THE most photo op lake I’ve seen in years . Lake Combal.
Totally still , icy cold with perfect reflection
It’s mesmerizing…..
I’ll limit the lake photos I include here I – have many more from this wonderful place. ….. well 1 more …..
Or maybe this too as the Boys attempt to alter the tranquility of this place 
It’s so beautiful, it’s an Editors nightmare to choose a photo- but we have to move on – Courmayeur awaits.
Downhill again …
…. and into the town for the promised Glacés and coffee 
Courmayeur is a chic town – they’re also very welcome once they know you’ve hiked here ………. Especially if you bring your own MULE . Una steals the show again.
We leave to be at our overnight stop in time to get a sense of the place before dinner.
Oh – before I finish this post. … Remember the Mountain Men ? …… as we leave Courmayeur. We learn that last night they’d camped on ground in front of Elisabetta – last nights refuge ( remember- warm one , nice vibe , good bar) … welll …. They had a skip load to drink at the bar ….. the weather had closed in … high altitude wind chill ….. it really was cold 
… ( in a tent -obvs) – just sayin’ … tried to get into the refuge in the early hours etc. . Had stumbled in the night and 2 or 3 were incapacitated come morning.
Choppered off the Mountain mid morning ! …. as a group! …… 
give us a K , an A , R , M, A ! –
A couple of the nice lads from that group resurfaced further down the trail some days later – we never saw the Testosterone Twins again.
Hope tonight’s stay at Berthone matches last nights bar but improves on the plumbing of Elisabetta – their Trip Advisor updated below hasn’t changed much 
…. Xxxx
Of course we were in the bunk rooms – Until tomorrow …. Xxxxx