The day of our Tall Ships Pilgrims Mass
It’s a always a special moment when you wake in Santiago. I’ve never woken as a Barcogrinõ before – this phrase has not existed for 500 years.
Pelegríno- the word for a Walking Pilgrim has certainly. Recently Bicigrinõ – by Bike has come into common use – but Barco’ – by Ship ? Not since the late 1500’s – and we’re the first.
* factually I cannot find any usage or reference across any search engine to the phrase Barcogrinõ at all – even though it makes perfect sense, and will be used widely going forward – I may have made it up 
–
This tiny plaza is waking again to a days work after last nights buzz. A functional ,less easily found part of the city , quiet at this moment except for the occasional greeting and low rattle of Al Fresco furniture.
Breakfast downstairs at Tarela takes time with the tastiest , messiest , omelette and a couple of coffees.
And into the busy streets and onto the square – Vaughan – VoS provides me a handy quality photo that sums up the mood of the transition from drizzly start to sunny welcome. How he gets SLR 
quality from his Android phone beats me.
The early market is alive and I would get better pics but the stall holders are no doubt less than impressed with the Guiri using them for local colour.
It’s a little after 10.00 as I wonder onto the square, our service is at 12.00 . I know that an hour before mass is about right if I want to experience the highest of high church masses from a good vantage point.
I’ve a feeling that it’s time for review and contemplation of many things that Camino brings and what’s the point of looking further if you have the Catedral Basílica de Santiago de Compostela on your doorstep. So , earlier than expected I enter …… at first all you can see is blurry images as you get used to the change in light; ……..
Then ……… a physical thump to your system.
-SHOCK & AWE …….a term I first heard 25 years ago in a distinctly different setting. A U.S. battlefield term of the effect a immense , encompassing light and sound first strike has on your enemy.
The Catedral is the Catholic Church’s first strike …… it’s designed I’m sure to do this. Consider the effect it has on us today with all our western distractions, choices , tech , high standards of living. Then put yourself back 800 years in the worn shoes of pilgrims and ardent believers of the day.
It says “You , Your beliefs , Your hopes and fears are in the right place !! – Look around you , just LOOK – how can it be otherwise?”
Don’t try to take it all in at once ……
It’s too much ….. try to focus on smaller deity detail if you can …..
Consider the work , the dedication, the time it took to create this – THE COST – of a tiny fraction of what you’re seeing here.
How you manage to bring yourself to quiet contemplation in this ecclesiastical baroque Versailles is part of the miracle (term used carefully) of this place.
And YOU KNOW this is not , any of it , a negative “power to the people” critique of the calculated use of Church or State resources. It works , lord knows how , feels appropriate.
And that’s BEFORE your beliefs , your expectations are captured, wrung out and rewarded by the pomp and circumstance of the service itself.
Few corporations have a reward and recognition program as effective as the Catholic Church. The management, the hierarchy, the consequences of your actions – Heaven or Hell , Heroes & Bad Actors – they throw shade on the inconsequential dwarfs of identity politics we see today.
.
And yet , and yet , and yet ……… you find a quiet place that is relatively still & calm….
I light each a candle for my dear ones.
Rev Richard – has let it be known he will be taking part in the service. It’s an added pleasure and expectation to have a fellow Pelegríno at the altar.
It’s a real honour for him and we discuss attempting to catch a photo or two for him to remember the occasion.
We are all warned over the vast speaker system by the numerous uniformed SECURIDAD security detail employed by the Santiago Catedral that the use of Cameras or Phones strictly forbidden. ( several times btw) . They watch like hawks and chastise anyone they see.
As is our nature- We consider which part of this warning is rule or guidance. I.E. Our interpretation = Avoid personal prayer and communion moments and plan accordingly.
Rather happy with the results albeit a tad covert.
I look up from my seat and see with interest the mix of the light in Cuppola and mechanics of an integral part of the service specific to this place and world famous.
I read somewhere that thanks to Napoleon‘s light fingered troops the current Botafumero dates from 1851. However the mechanical pulley system was installed in 1604. Good luck with that then.
THE BOTAFUMERO
I choose a seat where I know the immense censer will swing above me.
Thrilling – as from the front row of the North Transept I discover it’s where they tie up and launch this ‘must see’ event.
It takes eight red-robed tairaboleiros to swing this. They’re short on novitiates today as I see that 2 of the strong junior clergymen are in fact the same SECURIDAD guards who have slipped on robes. Expedient.
Here’s the best view I’ve had and captures just a little of this remarkable feat. Always the little things that make it – I especially like that last look over the shoulder and gentle warning to the priests to move aside before Launch.
WHAT’s IT FOR ?
PRAYER , PLAGUE or PONG
Three reasons you would need a massive incense burner. One or all of them have credibility.
800 years ago if you had walked across Europe with limited accommodation and hygiene opportunities just gathering there in hundreds is enough. But if the only place you had to stay was in the cathedral itself – reportedly on straw rush bedding ( Multi Purpose 
) that was changed VERY infrequently if at all . Can you imagine the smell ?
During the various plague outbreaks incense, was believed to have a preventative or cloaking effect. Most probably worked as well as some of the more harebrained pandemic ideas seen recently
And finally the one I like the best. Incense burning is part of the liturgy being an oration or prayer to whichever deity you choose to offer your thoughts:
If you’re not in a good signal / wifi area the video may not play . So below is the Ejector of Smoke – (as that’s what it means in Latin/Latino/Spanish ) – in full swing.
I note later some puzzled faces sat in the Nave. They see formula 1 type two second glimpses as the 53 kg Botafumero wizzes past them at 70 KPH . To appreciate the majestic long swing it will always travel North / South across the Transepts – sit there preferably. ( Although TBH anywhere you can – as it’s such an famous icon the vast cathedral is full for Pilgrims Mass and people sit on the floor )
After some impressive solo singing from a young nun throughout the service – we meet her later outside and congratulate her. We all meet up before some head off to extend their trek to Finisterre & Muxia.
The personable and very friendly Guvner/Deputacion / Junta / Brand Ambassador of definitely one of the places / cities / ports that we landed / visited / walked though came to say a few words. ( Choose any term from 3 – it’s all a blur ) Good sport too ; he did a football style shirt swop – his jacket for a TSCI24 sweatshirt.
Hugs and Lunch on the Side plaza – more stunning locations.
And as I walk back to my lodgings
Enjoying the Sun , the Florentine fountains , the cool arcades until I see them again hopefully in a year or two.
Handily our dinner for the final few who fly out tomorrow is held next to Tarela where I’m staying .
I have a busker on my hidden plaza – slow Americana music 
– he’s either playing for himself or the locals – and deserves the few euros I leave.
So my final after dinner farewells after 22 days of the finest adventure and trials are taken from my apartment in a Romeo & Juliet balcony stylee 
*******************
What’s gripped me about this trip is I hardly thought I’d find such an totally engaging way to make this already fabled route – even more fabulous.
But I did.
All depends who you include in your circle of influence.
It’s said you as a person are the sum of the average of your 6 closest influencers wether they be family, friends , colleagues or gurus. (an open term – does not have to be religious , corporate or Maharishi 
)
That’s how I got here.
Thanks to them all.
Farewell to TSCI24
@ CaminoRamblings.Com 2024
what a special experience this whole trip has been for you, and you’ve described today’s perfectly, its been a delight to follow you and experience it with you secondhand……your pen to paper writing skills are marvellous …..bravo 👏👏👏👏👏
Great read Ian. Captures the experience very well. I have a feeling quite a few of us will be back!
Vaughan (of Sydenham)
So beautifully and eloquently written, thank you for sharing your 22 days xxx