This is part 1 of today . A lot happened in one day and there’s a natural break between Faith and Frivolity later that lends itself to a two parter.
There are only five holy cities in the world, as recognized by the Catholic Church -These are :-
Jerusalem
Rome,
Santiago de Compostela
and ………..
Caravaca de la Cruz
Santo Toribio de Liebana
Numbers 1 to 3 you would definitely get. You might even try some other well-known cities. However, none of those have been ratified by the Vatican as Holy cities who can warrant pilgrimage fervor, issue such religious permits as Plenary Indulgences and the right to hold Ano Jubileo every 7 years .
Apologies for the looming short history lesson. *
The ‘Vera Cruz’ – True Cross and the reason that Caravaca is so important in the Catholic world ( or at least a the small part of the Cross ) – first appears in Caravaca or is mentioned in 1212 during The Christian reconquest of Murcia. However the critical moment of Religious Legend Is remarkably accurate- the date given is 3 May 1232 involving a local priest, Ginés Pérez Chirinos , who had been captured and was being interrogated by the Moorish – Almohad leader Abu Zeit in Valencia.
Asked to demonstrate his faith he found, ( not for the first time incidentally) …. the Vera Cruz had gone missing. Disaster you would’ve thought …. Until the cross was returned to the priest accompanied by two Angels – duly impressed this caused the religious conversion of his captor and followers.
Theres lots of reasons why , who they benefit and what you believe around articles of faith such as this . But we’re here , we’re open minded and the remarkable shrine, basilica, and Citadelle, all follow this 11th C religious occurrence to this day.
Caravaca itself has a remarkable place in Stone Age pre- history and Roman times and even in the 18th and 19th centuries was still being shaped and invaded by War , Famine and and Plague it was even partly abandoned as recently as 1950 due to economic collapse of its predominant shoe industry ( Espadrilles if you’re interested ) causing mass migration. To this day there are only 25,000 people here.
20th century
The theft of the True Cross ( AGAIN ) – as I’m pretty sure that Napoleons troops also did away with it at some stage – as with the Botafumero in SDC – Happened during one of the assorted 20th century dictatorships suffered by Spain. Francos years were not kind to remote Caravaca.
It was felt that in Caravaca any previous events , however catastrophic, were overshadowed by the theft of the Holy Relic of the True Cross just before the Civil War in 1934.
It was treated as an utter tragedy by the inhabitants, and all felt they had lost their identity at the time when it was needed the most.
The Terror Rojo
There’s a story about the local priest getting the blame for the theft and losing his life to mob rule. It wasn’t a murderous over-reaction- there were already other violent political forces work.
This is reminiscent of early stages of the ‘Terror Rojo’ when Leftist groups killed thousands in a political campaign of religious persecution against the Catholic Church in Spain. No Republican controlled region or Conservative group escaped systematic and anticlerical violence , although it was minimal in the Basque Country. ( You don’t mess with them) – The violence consisted of the killing of tens of thousands of people, including 6,832 Catholic Priests. An astonishing number – for so recent a time – this is not Medieval England – events long airbrushed from Spanish history – even now met with an embarrassed silence or attempts at justification by a large number of historians and memoirists.
Recovery
However the resourcefulness of the Catholic Church came to the rescue seven years after the theft of 1934 and the city’s religious identity was fully restored in 1941 when Pope Pius XII granted another “Lignum Crucis” – a part of the True Cross to Caravaca. Another example of the Vatican Corporate efficiency I’ve often held in high regard.
Present Day – 1998 onwards
Another boost was received in 1998, when during the papacy of John Paul II the Vatican awarded Caravaca a Holy Jubilee Year to be celebrated every seven years “in perpetuum”. The first of these Jubilee years was in 2003, and Caravaca is now one of only five cities in the world to host such an event.
That seven year cycle I mentioned in an earlier blog
This provides a kind of natural seven-year cycle to life in Caravaca, where both religious and rural tourism have grown in importance since 2000 . In turn investment in infrastructures such as the Vía Verde walking route and the motorway have brought more and more visitors to this long-suffering, long forgotten, deserving corner of north-west Murcia.
Do you think Caravaca is obscure?
I am to visit Santo Toribio in 2025/26. Remarkably this too is a holy city – this time it’s no more than 4 acres in size. Actually, a monastery/walled hamlet that never grew beyond its walls.
It will be a fascinating and challenging pilgrimage walk as this is a sharp left Half way along the Camino Norte and into the hills .
Anyhoooo
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Back to today
Out of the apartment, turn left onto the main street and within five minutes we were heading under this magical bridge into a series of beautiful plazas. All parts of the Citadel complex . Still quiet before 9 AM. But lively later on.
The feelings and pride that shows at the dazzling annual festival of Christians and Moors are everywhere. Caravaca has its own annual Moros y Christianos festival – and the wide main st you see from our apartment looks like this video :-
And, of course, as part of this festival, the utterly bonkers running of the wine horses. To commemorate smuggling supplies into a locally besieged Fortress that was dying of thirst.
If you don’t want to stand out, make sure you wear a red scarf ! ….. So – back to today 
Moorish & Islamic influences on architecture
We head into the first Church of the Citadel. The Iglesia Parroquial El Salvador. Remember, this is a parish church.
The usual, enchanting self effacement of a very basic entrance from the street .
Leads to soaring columns in a space you would not believe existed behind such a low key wooden door.
Of course they have a large Botafumero – this is a parish church with grand ideas – they’ll have to get a bigger one to create the excitement of Santiago though .
I take in the whole, peaceful scene with great satisfaction . Brigitta too finds great solace in these places.
I take in the whole, peaceful scene with great satisfaction . Brigitta too finds great solace in these places.
A few extra photographs in this church, as our destination does not allow it. A strict policy that says you are here for other reasons. This is not simply a place to be ticked off your next. “must see” list.
We head up now into the long lead up to the Basilica. It’s not yet 9:30 AM and the sun as you can see is still rising .
It’s a cool path with increasing good views that brings us eventually to the summit and as we round the corner ……
The Basilico Santuaio de la Vera Cruz
We’re very happy to be here – it’s a level of expectation that has been building for a number of days .
From here on in it’s an entirely mindful experience. No phones no cameras just you and a place that has been revered for 1000 years.
There is some beautiful singing from a lone priest, a chant then a hymn of some sort, quite hypnotic , enchanting as it’s not part of a service, he’s just happy to be working in and around the sanctuary .I can’t think of this place without his presence coming to mind.
We noticed that there are strict viewing times to see the actual relic. I have some surprising trepidation at the Prospect.
The first time the room leading to the right of the alter is opened is 10 AM – and only then for 30 minutes. It’s open other times during the day in a same way. This enables control of light , temperature, humidity and crowd control too I suppose.
This is where the “lignum Crucis” is held – the influence this has , has had , continues to exert ……
…… what if , just what if ? ….. the story , the lives , the wars , elation , suffering, art , literature, ancestors, the long line of family , belief systems , language, governance …. the change to the entire arc of human history …. And here am I …….. I shake my head to rumble that vast body of thought into a more logical compartment- for another day .
When it’s busy you may not get to see it without a long wait – if at all – they clearly state its not a tourist object . Also appreciation and taking your moment to consider exactly what’s in front of you is limited, if not impossible – as the line must be kept moving at most times .
NORMALLY that is ……. we realise we are the only people at the shrine. Remember, inside it’s huge , cathedral size .
It was even more special when the priest stops singing – puts on a jacket where his robe had been – and nodded to us
He unlocks the door to the inner sanctum, smiles and says ‘Take your time ‘ . In front of us is a small room , fantastically ornate with a stepped design that focuses on the relic. You can pray or just meditate in front of it there’s room for just 3 – if , like today there’s time . Brigitta does.
Then ….. sometimes something happens that you can’t explain – I enter – turn to look and have a fierce reaction – instantly turning away . A gentle hand rests on my shoulder- the priest – saying quietly in Spanish and English that he understands, this can happen. He guides me to a corner in a waving ‘sit for a moment’ hand gesture. It’s better from here.
I couldn’t say how long we were there. I can say that I have never experienced a reaction like that before. I had time to examine what I thought had happened. We live in less religious times so framing this in terms of spirituality , physical or mental reactions to expectation or just being open to the moment because of your beliefs or preferences is easier , less exposing.
We leave … not speaking …… what in the world just happened….. then rapid exchange of ideas …… elation now certainly….. is this how belief systems such as this gain traction????
HA! …… that last sentence….. already – so soon I’m starting to rationalise .
So I stop – go and sit on a tower … think … really think …. My place in all this.
The Penny Drops** ! … ‘Maybe THAT’s what this is all about’
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@ CaminoRamblings 2023
*. Researchers count more than one source as original – this lot came from 10 plus my own experiences and confirming stories I had heard along the way. As historians use 5 words where 1 will do any any facts I gleaned were rather dry and had to be re-charged for a more informal experience and then reduced by 80%. 
** “The Penny Drops” – angol kifejezés, jelentése “hirtelen felismerés”.