Camino de la Cruz y Caravaca – April 2023

Camino de La Cruz de Caravaca

This whole thing started as a reunion weekend with my lovely friends and Caministas . The original duo of Brigitta and Carmen (otherwise known as MorMor).

Firstly, a bit of background to explain how I ended up on this little known Moorish Camino . 

These two – Brigs & Carmen are the OG’s – the originals from my very first Camino in 2017 across the 800K of the Camino Frances, from the foothills of the French Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela.

A fairly standard Caminista arrangement where the normal is the extraordinary – at that time, Carmen From Romania had been living and working in Sweden for 30 years and Brigitta from Hungary had been around the world and was now based in Vienna.

Carmen has since relocated to Orihuela Costa in southern Spain as stage one of her retirement plan with husband Vallé.

Both have a thirst for adventure, both speak at least four languages and I’m lucky to have them as my Camino family.

So that’s why the reunion is here at Carmens Villa. It’s also why I took to thinking that why would I travel to Spain just for the weekend when I’m pretty sure there would be some form of historic/religious even a Camino hike in the vicinity maybe ?

This Camino that ends at the ( More important than I realised ) small city of Caravaca de La Cruz. It has a fascinating history and it puzzles me at first as to why few had heard of it.

But let’s rewind to the start – that would be Alicanté Airport .

Spent the first 40 minutes programming Apple CarPlay for myself, and two groups of older travelers into these Citroen DS3s . Saved us all a £40 upgrade to cars with SatNav

Why I would need a hire car on the Camino will become clear later. It’s really a matter of people arriving at the reunion at different times to me who want to walk at least some of the way on this new Camino. At the total cost of €98 for eight days it was a no-brainer.

I will cover the whole route on foot returning to the Hire- car when I need to get back to the airport for pick ups. Good planning and a good grasp of the Spanish bus system will be essential !

Here goes ……

The route starts in Orihuela town – An hours drive on the fast auto route from Alicanté Airport . It’s associated with the more widely known Camino De Levante. Although I never discovered how they actually connect as they are quite a distance apart.

The start in Orihuela

So far – so good

One thing I did come to realise is that from the initial fanfare of expensive, colorful signage they faded out as quickly as the locals knowledge that this route actually existed . I get the impression that the local Junta reinvigorates local enthusiasm every Holy / Jubilee 7th Year – most online research and route maps I found were based on the previous one in 2017.

Along with Santiago de Compostela, this is the only other city in Spain, recognized by the Vatican to issue a certificate of completion (known here as the Caravaquensis) and also have recognition to have a Año Jubileo, a Holy Year. 2024, is an Año Jubilar, with the next falling in 2031.

Apparently, the way is packed at Jubilee and there are a lot of events and celebrations during these years. Had I been organizing this Camino as an adventure I would’ve chosen jubilee year, but as an add-on to a reunion celebration with Camino friends this year will do fine.

When I found this route I found that Caravaca was a way more important place than I realised or anyone I know in the Camino community- more later.

I managed to make a contact some months ago at the archbishops palace in Murcia , and carry with me 3 Credencialé – the all important Pilgrim’s passports which you would normally need to access Alberqués , public Camino rest stops and to be awarded your Compostela – the completion certificate.

It turns out that they are nowhere near as strict or organized on this route. As on other Camino’s it’s fine to request a sello , a stamp for your Pilgrims Passport from a cathedral or tourist office to prove you passed through a particular town. But the bars and hotels are not set up here for this outside of jubilee years and your request ( in this case 6 years after the last one ) is met at best with amused puzzlement. ….. along with a cold beer, so that’s all right then.

But the weathers fab – it’s going to be an adventure whatever happens and there’s a big get together at the end of it !

I head for the Cathedral de Orihuela or ( take a breath) the La Santa Iglesia Catedral del Salvador y Santa María de Orihuela !

……. as that’s where the first stamp is issued.

Looks good …….. BUT ! ……. It’s closed , WHAT – that never happens ( I thought – how wrong ) – been closed since Thursday night , all Friday and today Saturday until tomorrow. mmm – that doesn’t work with my timetable – I’ll figure something else out .

I wonder off as the temp rises to 32 degrees and find a bar – it’s busy and as I take my Canã outside. I’m offered a spare seat by a local man .

There’s always a risk being willing to try language whatever the outcome . If there’s a ever an illustration of this – The brief conversation that follows in Spanglish accompanied by compulsory exaggerated shrugging – is it .

Him: Qui tal ?

Me : (Shrug) Moy Buen Gracias and you ?

Him: Bueno. ¿Y qué hacéis en Orihuela?

Me : I walk – errr …. Yo sigo errr I Follow the Camino por el Camino de Caravaca, …. errrr pero la catedral está – err Catedral is Closed – Cerrada ?

Him: (laconic) …”Sí, sí, el Padré está muerto”

Me : The padre is dead? Oh, that’s terrible.

Him: ( not flinching, that I broke into English ) “Si- Si”

Me: did you know him? – err Lo conocías?

Him : (looking serious) – Si Siiiiiii – ( On reflection that was quite emphatic )

Me : Well I’m sorry – Lo siento

Him : ( Nods )

Also Me : when did this happen ? err .. Paso ?

Him : que ?

Me : errr …. Cuándo pasó ?

Him : ( The oddest look on his face – again seriously delivered waving his arm behind him to emphasise his point ) Hace muchos años, MUCHO , MUCHO AÑOS !

Me: ( THINKING ) …. JESUS ! – it’s EASTER weekend – He means Jesus ! … not the local Padre ! …. and I asked did he know him ! Oh Nooo .

Also Me: “Siii Siiiiii” – ( offers to buy beer )

This conversation is forever known in our family as “go on Dad tell us the – “El padre es muerto” story again. The shame .

#engrishmanabrowd 🙂

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Anyhoooo ……

Onto my first nights accommodation. It’s in the Jardin de Seda locale in Murcia – I booked this place for a couple of nights as I can easily catch a bus to various parts of the Camino, and walk back to my apartment each day.

https://www.airbnb.com/l/GAsic8JE

Its a really nice apartment- great balcony sold it to me , cheap too as you can book both lockable bedrooms or just one if you’re ok sharing the lounge & bathroom . No hardship there’s a lot more “Sharey”type moments on the average Camino 🙂 

Dinner that night was on the balcony – food from the Deli – after a stroll in the Park and a coffee and Chupito on the roadside terrace of the Rincon de Momo bar .

Actually that’s too big for a Chupito 🤫

The first days hike tomorrow is planned ok ….. I’ve a 10 min walk to the Murcia section start – I’ll do the Orihuela section on my first airport run – not my normal linear Camino arrangement. But hey ….. Your Camino – Your Way.

The weather starts cool (ish) 😎– I’ll do as I always do – up before it’s light and avoid the heat

High Twenties later

I have a quick healthy dose of Parking paranoia and go to make sure that the car is parked in a long stay section and I have booked 48 hours.

And with that my first day is finished .

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