Meet you on the Square
The day started well enough , dry , organised and well intentioned to walk into Santiago at the speed of the slowest – no one gets left behind.

It soon turned all Galician
And after a brief 10 min glimpse of Sun it stayed “Galician ” every step of the way. The trail stays green a surprisingly long way into the city surroundings before the suburbs take hold.
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We stopped at the odd little café that looks like it’s in a sports hall and met up with Koos , Moritzio and Jan
As we neared our destination- we dropped into a little church on the outskirts of Santiago where I also got a stamp back in 2019 walking from Ferrol . Rev Richard took the opportunity to say a few words of thanks about pilgrims safely at the end of their way. He surprised us and sang an amazing impromptu Salvé that echoed around the ancient stones.
I think it’s a restrained architectural jewel. It looks more like the disappearing , original Galician houses of the time ( yeah I know , don’t start ) and stands in comparison to the surge in (still wonderful nevertheless) the religious Baroque Confectionery at the time of its construction.
What’s more I think San Caetano is a pretty cool Saint – he provided fundamentally a social service to the poor and needy – Material as well as Spiritual needs. He’s also the Patron Saint of Job Seekers and Unemployed – who knew ?
On , on – keeping us all together, checking we’re matching the city trail on the Wise Pilgrim App that’s been so handy this week .
The houses and churches all take on that familiar style of Santiago and we look for that exciting first view of the twin Catedral Towers. Got it ! – just to the right of the tree.
Here we go ………. The Centre of Santiago de Compostela. There’s an overwhelming rush of narrow streets , people , pilgrims, traders , temples, shops , bars , cafes, shouts of recognition, shouts of congratulations , first time on square , first cheers , first hugs , first “We Made Its!” For some it’s emotional tears , a release at this long awaited achievement , for some it’s quiet achievements contemplated.
I’ll figure a way to capture it one day. The entry into SdC . ( More noise , crowds , Cafes , Bars , Bakeries, Pavement piles of Backpacks, Walking Wounded and Jubilant Peleginõs , Souvenirs , religious icons, Camino keepsakes , Fabrikas Nikis fab T Shirts …. Xx )
Maybe it’s better as a vivid memory. This time it’s walking under the Arch with Rev Richard past the best busking place in Spain – irresistible local colour from Galician Bagpipes.
On the right as you walk in is the 7 star Parador Hotel de Los Reyes Catolicos – I first visited in 1986 with my Dad – the marvelously named Hotel of the Catholic Kings and most expensive of all the Paradors . €350 a night currently. Truly #Luxigrino
Team Pic , Team Pic – … count yourself lucky if you can gather a number of fellow travelers together- I’m one who believes that Camino = People and vice-versa so this shot is my happy reminder of this excellent band.
They’re an example of grit and determination. I take a moment to consider……..
………. NO QUALIFYING STATEMENTS
They’re strong
They’re adventurous
They’re funny
They’re determined
They’re creative
They’re kind and generous with their most precise commodity – Time
They’re supportive
They’re positive
They don’t suffer fools gladly
They’ve raised and launched generations
They know adversity
They deal with pain and discomfort
They cover 25k days
THEY TURN UP
None of these phrases needs an explanatory or qualifying AGE, HEALTH or PERFORMANCE kicker. THEY JUST ARE.
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Mike shows up to welcome
Hooo – flippin – rayy ! – The Sun comes out , I surprise video call the Fam’ I chat to Thom as he was here recently Oct ‘23 , I call Camino Family , love the reactions! Chat to Brigitta and Baby Liara – Gorgeous baby Guapaa .
Get whisked off to Lunch by David & Vreni – thanks.
There’s a small possibility I enjoyed the first pint with them
Back to the Square – more folk arriving. Still got backpack and drying waterproofs on.
Better sunny greeting photo Ops and I head to the Pilgrims office for my most unusual Compostela yet – UK Camino , Sea Voyage , Spanish Camino all in one.
Let’s go and find my home for the next 2 nights …….hidden tiny plaza , kids kicking a football , above the 7.00 am to 11.00pm Tarela Café/ Bar. 3 mins from the Square ….. looks like a good find – it’s a small place that’s my Balcony – top floor. #luxigrino
The bar owner – Julian very welcoming- says shout down when you want a drink. So I did – from here to here.
Long hot shower , downstairs- Café con Leché y un Chupito Cognac – Soberano is my long time favourite with Pa . Brandy aged in sherry barrels – Julian has it – rough, cheap and delicious.
Head out to meet the boys – we each took different routes and stages so be good to catch up. Drop into Nikis first – always new stock – particularly like this Galician Food take on the famous Ramones T-shirt .
There’s tons going on – picturesque it is in SdC
16th C costumes with Smartphone Accessory
With minstrels walking past nodding and greeting all.
They lead me to an impromptu performance in the colonnades – just Blimmin’ fab.
Can’t stay , I have an appointment . One last rousing song !
and Cross town – only takes 10 mins and into Café Bar Las Vegas.
Great chat , Good Food , Good Company , Double free tapas – Mike from Tucson ( he of the Tony Soprano delivery) is fluent and colloquially switched on. The staff love talking to him.
It’s coincidentally on the same Square I stayed on after the Camino Portugués in 2019 with Ciara , Annabel and Jessica. I enthusiastically describe our fabulous family flat to the boys and point out the July 25 bar we stayed above. It was the first time I saw our girls ages 13 & 11 at the time enjoy their independence as they say outside here and ordered breakfast & evening drinks.
Hang on – maybe I’ve got a pic from that time …… yep – found it easily – June 2019 – the joys of Blogging your adventures separately
https://caminoramblings.com/2019/06/06/%f0%9f%8e%89-domingo-gordo%f0%9f%8e%89/
Fab few hours – we fire off at 10.00pm to say hi to the main group in Café Manolo near my flat . Find that the hard core of that mob have headed to not far from where we just left to Meson Cestanõs near the park
and round off the first evening in SdC nicely
Time for hostels , hotels and apartments – we have our Pilgrims Mass tomorrow at the Catedral very much looking forward to is as we have our own dedicated part as this trip is such an unusual, eagerly expected Camino.
With a moderately irreverent midnight search of the Catedral precinct for the infamous Phantom Pilgrim – can only be seen at certain times .
can’t wait for the next instalment 😘