First 3 days on the Camino Inglés
A chilly grey dawn – comfortable to walk in but not what I’m used to in Spain.
Hang on – this is not the Francés of Navarre and Rioja – this is the Inglés – this is EXACTLY what I’m used to.
Galicia is after all Celtic land in Spain , there’s Red Hair , Bagpipes of course there’s rain – it’s known as Green Spain for a reason.
Heading up the first of loooong inclines – 2 hour sections
Ever notice that there appears to be no word for “Do-er Upper” in Galician : “Inherited a beautiful old property? , Does your ancestral home or Great grandparents cottage have original beams , stone lintels or art deco ironwork?” No Problem ! – Just ignore it and build new or lean to next to it , move into a Stalinist high rise across the road – you’ll have no view as ironically that asset is now blocked by your rotting inheritance.
Nuts
Anyhoo
The way soon opens up after the suburbs fade away .
And any residual architectural angst is soothed by 15000 meditative steps every 10k
With flashes of colour and deep tracks through green Holloways a balm.
Met some fine folk and stopped for a little chat .
The day – Sunday 17th June continues to the Alberque in Sergude. Modern – well run but not one plate / Bowl / utensil / pan to cook with in the ( unsurprisingly) spotless kitchen
Nevertheless a fine evening was had watching England V Obscure Team in Bar Casa Adolfo where the lovely matron would not serve us a single vast Pork Steak each as she made the too Tall / Broad / hungry / Pilgrim hand motions and gave us 2 each . Plus 5kg of chips n salad .
Early leave on Monday 18th heading a short distance to Hospital de Bruma. It had a whopping ascent which made this more trying.
The morning flew by with Brunch on the 5km forest incline under tree shelter –
I sauntered past bucolic scenes with the occasional burst of sunshine
And some lifting humour in this Beef and Dairy farm region – Cowmino !! 
– geddit?( it’s faint but it’s worth it )
And into Hospital de Bruma by 11.15 am- Good timing as I have some office work to do and Casa Grana was just open – the old boys from the villages arriving at a stately pace for a Monday Starter 
in 1980 vintage Peugeots and Golfs.
My office – good wifi – Café & Chupito ( Cheers Pa 
) . Accountant called , Bills paid , Agents chased , refurb followed up . All from deep rural Spain. Amazing on reflection.
And up through the village to the Modern Alberque San Lorenzo de Bruma …. Very nice where I’m booked into a jolly nice room rather than the dorm – I must have forgot to cancel it 
in favour of more penitent Pilgrim lodgings – oops.
)I meet up with a few of our band at Casa Grana and some other soon to be friends ( Koos , Jan and Moritzio ) who will stay in touch all the way to SdC .
Great evening from what I recall 
…… gave an exceptionally tall Irishman an interview for his Camino Voices project ….. mmm let’s see how that turns out .
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Tuesday 18th dawns
It’s Early again, as I leave the village. It’s a lovely time of day with very loud Birdsong and farm animal calls. Too early for any people, though in this laid back Galician Rurality.
I need an early start as it’s a 25 km day to Siguiero – and I never like walking after 2 PM if I can help it – old high temperature habit from Camino Francés .
I pass by the oddball statuary and farmhand sculpture that I remember from 2019. The T Rex has since been mounted on wheels. Which might be fun at festivals.
And take time to make a friend…..
It seems the Blood Thirsty message on the side of this chapel never loses its impact.
It’s an old chapel 1732 but who was San Pelayo de Buscas – and who had it in for him?
Past Cafe bar A Rua ( ok-ish) opposite price shock Casa Rural Donna Maria – reports of €40 dinners ripple like Rockefeller shockwaves through the thrifty “menu Pelegríno” conditioned pilgrims.
The morning rolls on . First YUM Tortilla stop , notice wheel chair access initiative for a friend, past more ignored old houses ( I won’t start on that again 
) , and the odd new one ,
And to the best Café bar on this stretch- the fondly remembered O Cruceiro – last here with a big group of German folk in Sept 2019 – shared the old pics with the owners. Had coffee with Koos , Jan , Moritzio and briefly Ken .
On another 10 k and meet Ken in a donativo Café in a bus shelter . We walk on together all the way into Siguiero – nice chat .
It’s a fine stop over for me in the Siobha Pension Boutique – I keep making those Lux-booking errors – next town it’s Say Yes to the Dorm
Twin Torpedo Tubes at the “Das Boot” 
Themed Bar in central Siguiero – it’s a stretch but maybe it’s a play on the words 
for Hiking Shoes.
SCHOOLBOY ERROR # 27 The Dinner Time Paradox
I meet the disparate band for dinner – and as this happens every night we should not be surprised by the utterly predictable.
1. You’re English – You’re Hungry – You want food. – Any civilized nation knows Teatime is at 6.00pm .
2. You carefully choose a bar/restaurant. WhatsApp shout out to see who’s in town – order group beers and ask for the Menu
3. Waiter explains – Cocina cerrada hasta las ocho – No food available until 8.00pm
4. Oh yes ! We remember now , – “Shall we go somewhere else? – Naa we’ve got a beer now it’ll be the same everywhere”
Two hours and 5 Beers later food arrives.
SAME SCRIPT- EVERY NIGHT – 
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Tomorrow Santiago!
Xxxxx
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