Atapuerca – we would all have heard this name in the early ‘90’s through to early ‘00’s . A place of massive caves where later silt caps kept the secrets of early man in a discoverable state until revealed by modern archaeology.
As Thom left the bar yesterday to scout over the Alto he saw the stone circles and radial stone patterns on the Atapuerca massive. Under here are the Secrets in bone , painting and habitation evidence that took the dawn of early man in Europe back from 500,000 to 1.3,000,000 years.
Atapuerca or Olmos ,the smaller village beyond was our destination for the night .
First fuel stop – Tosantos for breakfast about 8.30 am 5k down the trail . Smoothies and Coffee that lead to a Camino Meeting and who knows a fork in the road for Thom in the future?
Everything has a reason and this garden cafe was a little early for a stop – but it meant that we met Marina ( Ukrainian living in France for past 15 years ) .
The roll on Marinas pack is a clue- it’s not a bed roll ( too thin ) it’s a Yoga mat. 30 mins of lively conversation later Thom and Luke have been invited to where she currently lives – a Yoga Ashram in the Bahamas 
. She’s serious too and realising young people rarely have that kind of money there is a working option- 6 hours per day – and you live free and practice yoga rest of the time.
A Camino moment and who knows ?!
We move on as we need to be wayyyy ahead to cover the distance. But – flexibility – and being open to new ideas is something we don’t have time for in our normal daily lives – and look what happens when you are – we have so many examples.
And through the last of the flatland
And the start of 12km of fountainless climb . Through broad woodland tracks and logging roads up the Alto de la Pedraja – merciless on a hot day – I actually enjoyed it better last time when it rained.
Past deeply moving moments of remembrance for lonely violent ends for 300 souls.
And on past familiar oasis provided by local entrepreneurs.
A bit different in rainy 
2017 – but no less 
welcome. It’s a brutal stretch.
And again with the coincidences – in these vast woods after Belorado we get a chance to chat with a true extrovert. Meet Barret – he only works most ski seasons in Bansko , Bulgaria – a ski resort we go to often – bar tending in the Contra Bar or The Hub
We get a standing invite to experience the underground EDM dance show in the basement of Bansko Lab . 10 lev cover 5 lev beer . He’s on – 
this season 
.
Heads down , hike quiet until we reach civilization. San Juan – promised land of mid-day beer and tortilla – yum 
Straight into the Alberque bar . We are soon surrounded by familiar fellows 
.
And get my photo taken with Decker who we thought was the guy from the movie “The Hangover” – similar but not quite.
Luke and Charles telling stories. We’re checked in a couple of km past this village. But the owner/barman has kindly offered to drop us off 
- as we get on and our lot are spending on beer and pizza .
Thom fancies the walk – as there’s an alternative route through the Atapuerca hillside woods past Stone Age sites – we’ll see some more tomorrow and meet him at the Casa Rural we’ve booked.
We find the tiny village with what is described as a Bio-energetic Green lodging .
It’s nice (ish) but the room for 3 is a squash and a squeeze , Thom makes a bed on the floor and sleeps well – and the only thing green appears to be energy saved by lots of decor made from scavenged wood , no reception, no dinner as the restaurant they depend on is closed Mondays.
We eat toast and Jam , juice , yoghurt they left out for breakfast and in the total silence of this Outback – retire to bed but of course sleep like babies. 
Xxxx
Wow what a small world. Defo gonna contact Mr Bansko when we’re there.
Love the story 🥰
See you soon