We 3 appear to have developed a symbiotic trail relationship that suits all.
6.00am alarms hardly ever figure in Gen Z lives But still …. We meet all our check out , baggage transfer – and breaky deadlines and launch into a brilliant light .
To keep the troops interested – I’ve got a varied set of overnight bookings to come across the 4 stages of Spanish hospitality- ( From Alberque to Hostel through Hotel to Parador – this being a hotel in a 4 street , 2 horse town was beyond what was expected. Highly recommended)
Such a clear day – I break out my Sunglasses for the first time. Past an Unexplained column – A little research shows it is. “Rollo” It is a warning that you are now within someone’s jurisdiction, who can pronounce the full force of the law upon you in the area. It is effectively a sword of justice buried in the ground. Beware!
As we pass small groups – conversation usually starts with “Ola or Buen Camino” – they’ll ask “where are you from “ or we will and it continues from there .
In the meantime here’s proof that Texas is not that big a place- and you all DO know each other .
Imagine their reaction when I said – “You’re from Austin ,Texas – I have a Camino Buddy from there Paul Gautier ! “
These are all Pauls work colleagues inc’ the founder Alan Graham on the same 25th anniversary of the founding of their outstandingly effective work with the homeless and working poor in Austin . https://mlf.org/ . What an original way to celebrate 25 years – walk the Camino.
And on past some innovative sculpture.
With Charles (Centre) and Jeff Serra from MLF
Thundering down a hill , running Luke catches up . He’s enjoyed the chase and challenge of leaving an hour or more later and still making up the time
Hot now as we pass 20k through simple , baked towns like Cirueña you’d never see unless walking .
A few years ago we’d have passed through Ciriñuela too …. But progress ( mmm ) and the Rioja Alta Golf club development change the ancient way and now isolate the village . You CAN still get there if you try and the helpful village barman , serving mainly locals now , will point you back on the trail without retracing your steps .
2 hours onwards to our destination for the night . Santo Domingo de la Calzada . The only town with a Parador on our route.
Every Parador unique , this one was a 12th Century Pilgrims hospital. Hospital in a Camino context is shelter and food rather than injuries
It’s right opposite the cathedral- Centre of everything . Rooms and restaurants are all excellent . Surrounded by antiques and quiet , efficient service. I leave the Fam to raid the top quality room freebies and have a coffee on the shady front terrace. Bliss.
HOWEVER ! …. We need to get our daily laundry done . Only way to not carry too much is wear one / wash one . Unlike an Alberque you can’t do it yourself in places like this . Shame .
Reception say – leave it outside or fastest way is bring it down and we’ll do it for you and return it in 3 hours – nice. ….. They weren’t expecting a very large bag of Pelegrino trail wear .
There’s a charge says a worried receptionist… let me show you. The laundry list says €5 – reasonable I say , about same as usual for a big load like this.
No No she says – a little desperate- ‘is per item” ….. Strewth! – I’ve a €200 wash here!
I draw you map to the Laundry ? She offers . Too right !
All part of the adventure- it’s a pilgrim hub. I chat with 2 South Korean girls in the Laundry- they shout LAUNDRY BUDDY ! – every day since when we meet on the trail .
Wash in .- I pop into local bar next boor – meet a super bloke , quick 40 degree cycle glass on tinto – and farewell.
Thom and Luke come to pick me up . I’ve booked a table on the main square not only is it THE happening place in town . It’s opposite the laundromat- we can get the dryer on FROM the restaurant!
Top planning.
Thom and Luke . Proud of these two – they always make a good impression and the big groups of fellow travelers love them. They’ve been chatting to the mixed Aussie and US group here , who call me over to tell me this.
Lovely people -ask after Ciara – wheres she at ? they ask .
MMM finally confesses her name is Meredith , Sarah loves her Dance music – wants to come to Ibiza , Fiona we know , Audrey – super cool- admits she’s a “Burning Man” festival regular !
Supplies evidence ! Audrey on the right!
Dinner served – kids call me over .
Menu Pelegrino voted best so far €42 Inc drinks for 3 …. Lukes steak was VAST and great quality.
The Tazzie girls are there too . We’ve shared rooms and laughs with them since Orisson on first day . They were up and out by 5.30am this morning so heading for bed soon. Bless them ( and the lure of fame on Caminoramblings.com ) – they come back on the square just for this photo- love ‘em.
All looking fabulous on great form and rocking their Camino buzz cut hair-do’s xxx
Time to roll back to our short lived little piece of Parador luxury ( with nicely dried washing of course )
Night xxx
I’m loving following your journey. Hope that Thom will start one up when you part ways! Love you & stay safe ( well, the feet!!!) xxxx
Seems like you’re all well in the groove now. Proud of you all my lovelies.
Really looking forward to seeing you. 🥰