Camino Francés with Thom & Luke – Sep 2023

Old Mill to Palace

The old mill at Estella to the 1703 Palacio at Sansol

Estella got a bad press from me last time as did Los Arcos . Both get better press this time.

I saw the good side of Estella – but as we leave Lukes feet that had suffered when he took too much of the family load 2 days ago are in a bad way now. No blisters but big impact swollen and wayy too big to fit his boots .

We sort out baggage transfer and transport for Luke . Give him chance to recover and he gets to spend a day at our next stop . The Palacio de Sansol – an interesting discovery – a real life 1700’s Palacio run by the owner and original family member at Alberque prices. Let’s see .

First into the countryside / later than planned now but past this fascinating forge.Smithy chaos with a big trade in camino crafts.

And shortly after into the Irache vineyards.

With its famous – unique FREE Wine Fountain. Bizarre and always entertaining- you’re supposed to refresh yourself from the Camino Shell you carry but I can name at least one Irish Bar tender who had a half litre left at the end of the day. 👏😆👏

Classic method

👌The 4 stages of Appreciation

Joined by Melbourne Crime writer in training Zach Grimes – Ex planner for the Aussy National Parks . Top Man. Erudite company x

And on through an alternate woodland trail that’s shaded , soft ground and peaceful. That rejoins the main Camino at these views – gorgeous.

Castle on hill ? / tick ✅

Thom pics of brief rest and contemplation- it’s what this trail does best xx

And onto a shady lunch stop an hour later next to a food van

My feet talking to Kevin from South of Dublin

And Zach sharing the Craic ….

And Shortly after some impressive “Pallet Furniture” creations in a no name hamlet.

Might give this design a go myself – highly meditative 😏

….. We trek through Los Arcos – looking fab ! Don’t let me dis’ it again . We see the Carla and Co in the square 2.30 pm and none with a booking for the night – ( Good and bad points but they always end up with a bed ) .

We chat – they ask if they can get into the Palacio as it looks good – I say I’ll be there in 90 mins and let them know. 90 mins =7 k of not a spot of shade on a windy dust road where you can see the Hamlet of Sansol from 7k away and it seems to take forever at end of day. 🥵

Worth it to end up in this Quirky one off Hostal

And what a stair case !

Dinner is communal , one sitting , a presentation from the Netherlands Hospitalera and proper grace said..

Next to him – sitting is the owner whose family the house had been in for centuries. They sold it many years ago but it was left to ruin. Some years ago he had a vision of a place for pilgrims , rest , meditation and lively discussion. A true palace at Alberque prices .

He approached the new owners – English people . It was almost a ruin . How much ? They replied – “what you can afford” ( he likes English people ☺️) . He offered €30,000 for his family home back – they said YES!

He spent almost €1 Million – on refurb – and it’s great .

The owner fulfilled his dream – he does the cooking , serves the food , we all do the clearing and washing up and he speaks only Spanish , happy to serve along the Camino.

A good man .

I spend the time before bed playing an odd version of billiards on a high Palacio terrace with Luke and an all you can drink Red 🍷. On a pool sized table with a 10% lean and no tip cues 🙃. Hot villages and mountains Cooling down at dusk in the far distance.

Life is good .

Xxxx

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2 thoughts on “Old Mill to Palace

  1. Ciara says:

    Poor baby hobbit feet. 😣very atmospheric husband. Sending love and thinking about you all. ❤️

  2. Kate says:

    Oh Lukey boy! My sympathies. How’s he feeling now? Poor sausage – send him all our love xxxx

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